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On the Paris runway, Kenzo’s punk revival puts a British spin on streetwear

France Fashion Kenzo F/W 25/26 A model wears a creation as part of the Kenzo Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Friday, March 7, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP) (Scott A Garfitt/Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

PARIS — (AP) — Kenzo’s latest evolution at Paris Fashion Week on Friday traded its signature jungle prints for something sharper: punk-infused tailoring, underground energy, and a touch of British irreverence.

For its first dedicated women’s show in eight years, the LVMH-owned house embraced a rebellious streak. Shawl-collared tuxedo jackets melted into kimono shapes, harem pants slouched low, and lingerie peeked from waistbands. The soundtrack? Sex Pistols, Patti Smith and Blondie — setting the mood for a collection that felt more East London than Parisian cool.

With creative director Nigo absent, his new womenswear studio, helmed by Givenchy alum Joshua A. Bullen, took center stage.

The mix of Savile Row structure, deconstructed streetwear, and subversive details hinted at a fresh direction. And in a final, cheeky touch, guests left with T-shirts and crayons in metallic envelopes stamped with Kenzo’s latest emblem: a wide-eyed rabbit, ready to run.

Because at Kenzo, the tension between past and present isn’t just explored — it’s worn.

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